About the Area
The Umatilla National Forest in Northeast Oregon and Southeast Washington is administered from the Forest Headquarters Office in Pendleton, Oregon and four Ranger Districts. The Forest Supervisor, assisted by professional and technical staff, is responsible for all activities affecting the 1.4 million National Forest acres. District Rangers and their staffs accomplish on-the-ground management of forest resources.
The National Forest system is administered by the USDA Forest Service. The Umatilla National Forest is within the Pacific Northwest Region which includes 19 National Forests in Washington and Oregon. Headquarters for the Pacific Northwest Region are located at the Edith Green-Wyndall Wyatt Federal Building in Portland, Oregon. Like all National Forests, the Umatilla belongs to all Americans and is managed under the multiple-use principle "for the greatest good of the greatest number in the long run."
Over 20 percent of the Umatilla National Forest's land base is within classified wilderness. The Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness contains 177,400 acres; the North Fork John Day Wilderness extends over 121,800 acres, and the North Fork Umatilla Wilderness contains 20,200 acres.
The Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness in the northern Blue Mountains straddles the Oregon-Washington border. The Wenaha River, Crooked Creek, Rock Creek and Butte Creek have cut deep canyons into the tablelands and left heavily timbered "stringers" along the stream courses. The higher ridges are generally narrow with gravelly soils and very steep side slopes. Elevations within the Umatilla National Forest Wilderness areas range from 2,000 feet on the Wenaha River to 6,401 feet at Oregon Butte. Rocky Mountain elk, mule deer and whitetail deer inhabit the bunchgrass slopes on the Wenaha Canyon to the near-timberline species which grow on Oregon Butte and Table Rock.
The North Fork John Day Wilderness in the southeast section of the forest is laced by 130 miles of streams, many of which support anadromous fish. Its features include the bold granite outcroppings of the Greenhorn Mountains, heavily timbered streamside zones, grassland ridges and benches, and steep dissected canyons. The highest peaks on the forest are located in the Greenhorn Mountains near the Vinegar Hill-Indian Rock Scenic Area at the southern border of this Wilderness.
The forest's smallest wilderness, the North Fork Umatilla, is nestled in the narrow valley of the North Fork Umatilla River, 30 miles northeast of Pendleton. The river separates steep, timbered cliffs which rise to plateaus covered with native bunchgrass. The Wilderness supports elk and deer and is habitat for blue and ruffed grouse.
For more information about the Umatilla National Forest Wilderness Areas and regulations, visit the Wilderness webpage.
Find more general information about Wilderness at Wilderness.net.
Established by Congress from 1975 to 1988 these rivers were selected for their outstandingly remarkable values such as recreational, wildlife, historic, cultural or other similar values.
The Umatilla National Forest has three designated wild and scenic rivers for your floating, fishing or hiking activities.
- North Fork John Day River
- Wenaha River
- Grande Ronde River, which the Umatilla National Forest co-manages with the Bureau of Land Management.
History
The National Wild and Scenic Rivers System was created by Congress in 1968 (Public Law 90-542; 16 U.S.C. 1271 et seq.) to preserve certain rivers with outstanding natural, cultural, and recreational values in a free-flowing condition for the enjoyment of present and future generations. The Act is notable for safeguarding the special character of these rivers, while also recognizing the potential for their appropriate use and development. It encourages river management that crosses political boundaries and promotes public participation in developing goals for river protection. The 1988 Oregon Omnibus Rivers Act (P.L. 100-557) amended the 1968 National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act and designated all of the wild and scenic rivers on the Forest.
River Classifications
According to the Wild and Scenic Rivers Acts, rivers are classified as wild, scenic, or recreational.
- Wild river — Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments and generally inaccessible except by trail, with watersheds or shorelines essentially primitive and waters unpolluted. These represent vestiges of primitive America.
- Scenic river — Those rivers or sections of rivers that are free of impoundments, with shorelines or watersheds still largely primitive and shorelines largely undeveloped, but accessible in places by roads.
- Recreational river — Those rivers or sections of rivers that are readily accessible by road or railroad, that may have some development along their shorelines, and that may have undergone some impoundment or diversion in the past.
River Values
Wild and scenic rivers have two main values which were used to designate them under the act. The first value is 'free-flowing'. Free-flowing is defined as existing or flowing in a natural condition without impoundments (e.g. dams, streamside riprap, diversions, etc.). The second value is a river's outstandingly remarkable values (ORV). ORVs are a river's unique set of characteristics like physical, cultural, botanical, scenic, historical and recreational.
Information about the Wild and Scenic Rivers Program
More information about the national wild and scenic rivers program can be found at the national wild and scenic river website.
The habitat provided by the Umatilla National Forest supports one of the largest herds of Rocky Mountain elk found on any national forest in the nation. Nearly 40,000 hunters visit the Umatilla for their annual game hunting opportunities each year.
Blue and ruffed grouse are found near the forest's springs, streams and rivers. Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep can be found in the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness area and are occasionally seen as far south as the Walla Walla River. A small population of California bighorn sheep has been established in the Cottonwood-Cummings Creek area located east of the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness. Merriam turkeys are observed near locations where they have been released; Madison Butte, Bridge Creek Flats, Gurdane, and Troy. Chinook salmon, steelhead, and rainbow trout are found in the Grande Ronde, Umatilla, Wenaha-Tucannon, Walla Walla and North Fork John Day rivers, and many of their tributaries.
Sightseers may drive over 2,000 miles of forest roads, hike or ride over 715 miles of trails, pick wild mushrooms or huckleberries, select from more than 20 campgrounds throughout the forest, and float the Grande Ronde or North Fork John Day rivers from April through June.
The Grande Ronde River is navigable with rubber rafts, canoes, kayaks, and rowboats with a shallow draft that are built especially to withstand heavy abuse. During an average year, streamflows can be too low for floating from July to September. It is best to float the river when the streamflow is between 2,000 and 8,000 cubic feet per second (cfs). Streamflow records are kept by the Army Corps of Engineers in Walla Walla.
The North Fork John Day River (NFJD) means a lot of things to a lot of people. To river rafters it means rapids that are challenging enough for seasoned veterans, yet easy enough (on the lower section) for beginners. For floaters, one of the most popular sections of the river is from Dale to Monument. Rapids on this section of the NFJD are generally categorized as Class 2+ Rapids. At higher water the river takes on a Class 3- character. The length of the journey is 40 miles and it winds through forested canyons and past several feed-in creeks. The NFJD is fed primarily by snowpack in the Blue Mountains so its flow is very seasonal. Peak flow is usually in April and in some places can be as high as 20,000 cfs. Average flow is around 6,000 cfs. The best time to run the North Fork John Day is in April and May when the flow is near its peak.
Campground and picnic sites, designed to blend with the forest environment, are located away from traffic and commercial development. Campfire permits are not required though campfires may be prohibited during the late summer and early falls months due to the fire danger. The length of stay at any one site is limited to 14 days on a first-come, first-serve basis. In several campgrounds, where more facilities and services are provided, a fee is charged for overnight use. Campgrounds do not have electricity, showers, of sewage disposal (except for waste disposal dump stations at Bull Prairie and Tollgate Guard Station).
Olive Lake, covering 145 acres, is the only natural lake over three acres in size on the Forest. Bull Prairie Lake, 24 acres; Jubilee Lake 97 acres; and Penland Lake, 70 acres, were developed cooperatively by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife and the USDA Forest Service.
Winter recreation opportunities on the Umatilla National Forest are endless. You can flex your leg muscles on one of our many cross-country ski trails or try your hand at downhill skiing at the Bluewood Ski area, located 20 miles south of Dayton, Washington, or at Spout Springs Ski Resort, located in the heart of the Blue Mountains on Highway 204 near Tollgate, Oregon. You can tool around on your snowmobile through the mountainous terrain, or enjoy less structured activities such as snowshoeing, tobogganing, sledding, and inner tubing. If you like solitude and scenic winter beauty, snuggle into one of our Forest Service Guard Stations and cabins, it can be a unique and memorable experience. The Guard Stations are open year-round; however, vehicle access is usually from May 1st to November 1st, winter recreation use requires alternate transportation such as skis, snowshoes, or snowmobiles.
Find more information about our recreation opportunities here.
Fremont Power House Interpretive Site
Photo of Fremont Powerhouse.
(USDA Forest Service)In the mid and late 1800s, the North Fork John Day drainage was bustling with gold and silver mining. In the rush, mining towns popped up here and there, only to be left to ruin as the mining dwindled. The nearby town of Granite is one such ghost town, with weathered buildings and the graves of prospectors and pioneers who came to seek their fortunes.
In 1903, local mines began to notice a decline in earnings and promoted construction of a cheaper power source in an effort to operate the mines more economically. As a result, the Fremont Powerhouse was constructed and began operation in 1908. Two dams were constructed at Olive Lake and water from the lake was piped through an eight-mile-long wood and steel pipeline to the powerhouse to generate the much-needed electricity. A large portion of the building collapsed in 1992 under a heavy snow load. The Oregon National Guard, led by retired Command Sergeant Major Joe Batty, reconstructed the powerhouse and cabins from 1999 through 2005. The powerhouse contains pictures and artifacts from a bygone era. There is a local caretaker who gives tours when he is on site.
Kelly Prairie
The prairie is located along the Blue Mountain Scenic Byway and offers spectacular displays of wildflowers in the spring. This site is minimally developed, with only a parking area. There are no informational signs or other facilities.
Olive Lake Campground
Photo of Olive Lake.
(USDA Forest Service)Nestled on the edge of a lake, high in the Blue Mountains of Eastern Oregon, this popular campground is only 8 miles west of the historic Fremont Powerhouse and 12 miles west of the old mining town of Granite. The campground features 28 campsites and 7 accessible toilet facilities. Other features include a 2-mile hiking trail around the lake with nearby access to wilderness and scenic area trails, a boat ramp and 2 docks. There is no potable water or garbage service, so please pack your garbage home.
Besides beautiful scenery, the lake offers many opportunities for wildlife viewing--particularly a nesting pair of ospreys that return annually. Activities in this area include fishing, boating, swimming, hiking, hunting, and photography. Within 20 miles are several historic sites.
Ray Ridge Viewpoint
This viewpoint offers an unobstructed view of 95% of the Wenaha -Tucannon Wilderness.
Mountain Road #40
This road is closed to wheeled traffic from Dec. 1 thru March 31 each year. This is the time that it is a designated snow mobile trail and is groomed on a regular basis. This trail begins at the forest boundary on Mountain Road #40 and ends at Mount Misery. The groomed section along Mountain Road #40 is well maintained for snowmobiles, cross-country skiers, and other snow enthusiasts. The trail is characterized by a double groom width for easier passage, well-marked trail signs along the route, and generally follows along at a gentle incline from the Boundary to Mount Misery. The trail does narrow on the bypass behind Sunset Point.
Whitman Route Interpretive Site
Users will be introduced to an interpretive display on the Marcus and Narcissa Whitman route to their future mission located near Walla Walla, Washington. The overlook offers a panoramic view into Meacham Creek Canyon. This interpretive site is barrier free and nice for picnicking.
Blue Mountain Scenic Byway
The Blue Mountain Scenic Byway, designated in 1989 under the National Scenic Byway Program, allows east-west travelers an alternative route between the Columbia River near Arlington and Baker City, Oregon. This scenic byway covers 130 miles of paved, two-lane road, crossing Morrow and Umatilla counties in northeast Oregon, with a long segment of the byway traversing the Umatilla National Forest.
Table Rock Lookout
Table Rock offers spectacular and unmatched views of the surrounding terrain. To the west is the Mill Creek Watershed, municipal water source for the City of Walla Walla, Washington, and eastward lies the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness. On the narrow ridgeline separating these two rugged areas is the Kendall Skyline Road (Forest Service Road 64).
Vinegar Hill/Indian Rock Scenic Area
This scenic area is located on the southernmost portion of the Umatilla National Forest adjacent to the North Fork John Day Wilderness. It covers over 25,000 acres, including the highest elevation point on the Forest: Vinegar Hill at 8,100 feet. The major attraction of this area, aside from hunting opportunities, is the splendid 360-degree vista available from several high elevation viewpoints. Hiking in grassy, open alpine areas and subalpine trees provide a scenic and unusual contrast from the adjacent forested areas.
Stahl Canyon Overlook
The overlook, located on Forest Service Road 21, offers a panoramic view of the canyon and beyond to the northwest. Big game use this canyon as a travel way, and raptors are often seen soaring overhead.
Clearwater Big House Cabin
Photo of Clearwater Big House Cabin.
(USDA Forest Service)Clearwater Big House Cabin is neatly placed on a gently rolling slope in a clearing planted with a younger generation of Christmas trees in the area. The Cabin's location may give the feel of being a winter chalet hideaway, even during the warmest months of the summer. This two-story comfort cabin lives up to its name. Expansively, with 868 square feet of living space on the first floor, and another 336 square feet upstairs, there are three bedrooms, a living room, and a kitchen.
Clearwater Big House Cabin was once a ranger station and once a deep-rooted trapper cabin. In 1928 and 1929, Ranger Grover Blake built a three-room house out of scrap lumber donated by local stockmen and game department. In 1933, 200 Civilian Conservation Corps' men, who were staying at the district, built the barn, warehouse, outhouse, and garage.
History
The Forest takes its name from the Indian word meaning "water rippling over sand." Explorers Lewis and Clark came past this land in 1805 on their Columbia River Voyage to the Pacific Ocean, and Marcus and Narcissa Whitman passed this way in 1836 to establish a mission at Wailatpu near Walla Walla, Washington. Thousands of emigrants followed the Oregon Trail westward, and many remained in the Blue Mountain Country. The Forest celebrated its 100th year anniversary in 2008.
Surrounding Communities
The Umatilla National Forest borders a number of small communities. These communities offer many resources for travelers planning a visit to the Forest and surrounding area.