Mt. Hood Detailed Climbing Information

Before your climb

Be knowledgeable and practiced in mountaineering skills. Know how to use your equipment.
First time attempting a technical climb? Take a guided climb with experts.
Be in good physical condition. The climb is over 5,000 ft. of elevation gain!
Check the weather, avalanche forecasts, and climbing condition information.
Plan your route. All routes are TECHNICAL CLIMBS. There are no hiking trails to the summit.
Climb with a competent and experiencer partner(s).
Carry emergency supplies including extra clothing, food, water, and a reliable communication device.
Tell someone at home your destination, route, time due back, and equipment you are taking. If you are overdue, that person should call 911.
Fill out a climber's registration form at the Climbers Registration area at the Wy'East day lodge, if starting at Timberline.
Wilderness permits are required year-round on the south side routes and May 15 to Oct. 15 for other areas within the Mount Hood Wilderness. A 3-day climbing permit counts as your wilderness permit. Annual climbing permit holders must also complete this online form or a paper wilderness permit.
Pick up a WAG bag for human waste. These bags are free and available year-round in the Climbers Registration area in the Timberline Day Lodge and local ranger stations.
Purchase your Mt. Hood Climbing Permit, required as of January 1, 2024, on Recreation.gov any time before the start of your climb.

On the climb

Camping: Most south side climbers who camp do so in the Triangle Moraine area, 200 to 800 vertical feet above the top of the Palmer lift (8600 feet in elevation).
Be aware of potential mountain hazards like rockfall and icefall, avalanches, glacial features like crevasses, fumarole holes, and hard, slick snow conditions that could allow a long sliding fall. Deteriorating weather can advance quickly and drastically change conditions. All of these hazards, including weather itself, have produced fatalities on Mt. Hood.
Many mountain hazards change year to year, day to day, and even hour to hour. Expect different conditions and associated hazards every time you are on the mountain.
Do not hesitate to turn back because of poor conditions.
Poor visibility, particularly when descending, can pull you off route. Use your compass and/or GPS. Following the fall line from Crater Rock will pull you down into Zigzag Canyon, not back to Timberline Lodge.
Leave No Trace within Mount Hood Wilderness.
Do not walk up or down the groomed ski runs of the Palmer snowfield during spring and summer, to avoid ski area operations. Climb to the east of the Palmer snowfield, at all hours, to avoid the groomed runs and terrain features.

After the climb

Rest before driving. There have been significant motor vehicle accidents from climbers falling asleep driving after the climb.

Safety

Portland Mountain Rescue's Safety Education resources

Personal Locator Beacons are advised for climbers, but these devices do not replace good judgment and basic climbing skills.

Universal Transverse Mercator (UTM) geographic coordinate system

UTM coordinates in NAD 27 CONUS datum for south side landmarks:

Start of climbers path at Timberline: 10T 0601216 5020342.
Silcox Hut: 10T 0601205 5020834.
Midway Terminal on Palmer Lift: 10T 0601286 5022705.
Top of Palmer Lift: 10T 0601490 5023387.
Triangle Moraine: 10T 0601831 5024201.
Devils Kitchen, start of traverse leading to the Hogsback: 10T 0601941 5024562.
Hogsback: 10T 0601970 5024771.

When to Climb

Time of Year: Spring and early summer are the most popular time of year to climb most summit routes. While hazards exist every month of the year, conditions during this window are typically better. During late summer and fall, rockfall is significant and nearly impossible to avoid and glacial features like crevasses are more exposed. Winter months can offer outstanding climbing conditions, but conditions can change quickly with winter storms.

Time of Day, South Side routes: Most climbers time their climb to reach the summit at sunrise. This helps mitigate rockfall and icefall hazards, which tend to increase as the day warms. Climbers need to evaluate their climbing ability and speed to determine their start time. Some climbers complete their climb in one day, starting between midnight and 2:00 a.m. Others start the day before and make camp around 8,800 feet to 9,400 feet to shorten their summit day climb. The key is to be away from rock fall areas before the heat of the day.

Portland Mountain Rescue Mt. Hood virtual tour

Climbing Equipment Checklist

This list is a starting point. Route selection and conditions may require more gear.

Waterproof, lug-soled climbing boots
Synthetic or wool long underwear
Insulating clothing and extra clothing
Weatherproof outer shell
Gloves/mittens and extra pair
Glacier sunglasses with side shields
Ski goggles
Sunscreen
Backpack
Extra food, water, and clothing
Headlamp
Personal Locator Device
Avalanche beacon, probe, and shovel
Helmet
Ice Axe
Crampons
Other climbing gear, potentially including harness, rope, pickets, ice screws, and other hardware
First Aid Kit
Emergency Kit including whistle, space blanket, knife, lighter
Topographic map, compass, altimeter GPS device
WAG bag for human waste (free and available year-round in the Climbers Registration area in the Timberline Day Lodge)