Sky Lakes Wilderness

Introduction

The United States Congress designated the Sky Lakes Wilderness in 1984 and it now has a total of 113,590 acres. All of the wilderness is in Oregon and is managed by the Forest Service.

Description

With a name like Sky Lakes, this Wilderness is obliged to deliver at least more than one impressive sapphire pool, and it does. In fact, it takes in three major lake (former glacial) basins as it stretches along the crest of the volcanic Cascade Mountains from the border of Crater Lake National Park on the north to State Highway 140 in the south: Seven Lakes, Sky Lakes, and Blue Canyon basins. All of southern Oregon seems to lay at your feet when viewed from the rugged summit of the beautiful volcano Mount McLoughlin (elevation 9,495 feet), and then extends out northward into Sky Lakes' broad plateau-like ridges, dotted with many of the Wilderness's lakes. You'll find creeks and ice-cold springs (such as Ranger Springs, where the Middle Fork of the Rogue River springs to the surface almost "full-grown" from the beneath the lava), grassy meadows, and scores of crystalline sub-alpine lakes. Several of the Wilderness's lakes (Alta and Natasha among them) were found (by 1980s-90s Environmental Protection Agency baseline study of acid-rain conditions in Western U.S. mountain lakes) to have among the most chemically pure water known of all lakes on the globe. Most of the area's lakes (some of them stocked by the State of Oregon with game fish) are set against a backdrop of tall trees that reach to the edge of the lakeshore.

An overall high-elevation forest consisting largely of Shasta red fir, western white pine, and mountain hemlock yields to lodgepole pine around many of the lakes, as well to moisture-loving Engelmann spruce here and there. Hardy, long-lived whitebark pines are found near the summits of Mt. McLoughlin and Devil's Peak. The forest's understory is dominated by species of huckleberry, as well as manzanita, snowbrush, and heather.

Elk herds spend much of the summer and early fall in the northern third of the Sky Lakes Wilderness, and the elk-hunting season can be very active; the entire wilderness supports roving populations pine martens and fishers, black bears, cougars, coyotes, as well as pikas and golden-mantled ground squirrels and other species of wildlife. During October and November, migrating birds pass over in the hundreds of thousands, often stopping at the high lakes. Ospreys regularly visit Sky Lakes to try their luck at fishing. Thirsty swarms of mosquitoes hatch from snowmelt until mid-August.

The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCNST) passes the entire length of Sky Lakes Wilderness north-south for about 35 miles, but much of the PCNST route is well away from streams, springs, and other water sources. Human use is heavy in the three main lake basins, particularly at the larger lakes, which are popular fishing, hiking, and camping destinations. The 1888-inscribed "Waldo Tree," at the southeast shore of Island Lake is a draw for a few historically minded visitors each year, as is the opportunity to hike along the route of an 1860s-1890s military wagon road, on the present Twin Ponds Trail. The summit of Mt. McLoughlin is a popular but very strenuous summer day-hike. Other areas of the Wilderness typically provide excellent opportunities for solitude.

The Sky Lakes Wilderness is part of the 107 million acre National Wilderness Preservation System. This System of lands provides clean air, water, and habitat critical for rare and endangered plants and animals. In wilderness, you can enjoy challenging recreational activities like hiking, backpacking, climbing, kayaking, canoeing, rafting, horse packing, bird watching, stargazing, and extraordinary opportunities for solitude. You play an important role in helping to "secure for the American people of present and future generations the benefits of an enduring resource of wilderness" as called for by the Congress of the United States through the Wilderness Act of 1964. Please follow the requirements outlined below and use Leave No Trace techniques when visiting the Sky Lakes Wilderness to ensure protection of this unique area.

General Wilderness Prohibitions

Motorized equipment and equipment used for mechanical transport is generally prohibited on all federal lands designated as wilderness. This includes the use of motor vehicles, motorboats, motorized equipment, bicycles, hang gliders, wagons, carts, portage wheels, and the landing of aircraft including helicopters, unless provided for in specific legislation.

In a few areas some exceptions allowing the use of motorized equipment or mechanical transport are described in the special regulations in effect for a specific area. Contact the Forest Service office or visit the web sites listed on the 'Links' tab for more specific information.

These general prohibitions have been implemented for all national forest wildernesses in order to implement the provisions of the Wilderness Act of 1964. The Wilderness Act requires management of human-caused impacts and protection of the area's wilderness character to insure that it is "unimpaired for the future use and enjoyment as wilderness." Use of the equipment listed as prohibited in wilderness is inconsistent with the provision in the Wilderness Act which mandates opportunities for solitude or primitive recreation and that wilderness is a place that is in contrast with areas where people and their works are dominant.

Sky Lakes Wilderness-Specific Regulations

Wilderness managers often need to take action to limit the impacts caused by visitor activities in order to protect the natural conditions of wilderness as required by the Wilderness Act of 1964. Managers typically implement 'indirect' types of actions such as information and education measures before selecting more restrictive measures. When regulations are necessary, they are implemented with the specific intent of balancing the need to preserve the character of the wilderness while providing for the use and enjoyment of wilderness.

Equestrians are welcome in Sky lakes Wilderness, which offers many miles of day-riding or overnight-packing opportunities. However, with its fragile ground-cover vegetation and short growing season, special measures must be taken by stock users while in the Wilderness to protect the area's naturalness. Also, because of ecological and social issues, in two of the high-use lake basins of Sky Lakes (the Seven Lakes Basin and the Blue Canyon Basin), designated horse-camps must be used by equestrians when camping in these two areas. The "Horses and the Sky Lakes Wilderness" brochure (691 KB PDF) provides details on these camps as well as many other items of interest to horse users.

The following wilderness regulations are in effect for this area. Not all regulations are in effect for every wilderness.

CACHING OF EQUIPMENT PROHIBITED
No caching of food, supplies, equipment.

CAMPSITE RESTRICTION - IN DESIGNATED SITES ONLY WHEN CAMPING WITH STOCK
Restriction of camping within designated camps only applies within two high-use lake-basin areas within the wilderness, as shown on public hand-out map.

CAMPSITE RESTRICTION - MANDATORY SETBACK FROM WATER : 100 FEET
Campsites and fires prohibited within 100 feet from lakes; 50 feet from streams or springs; preserves water quality, vegetation, and privacy of other groups.

MAXIMUM GROUP SIZE: 8 MEMBERS
Group-size limits applied to provide for the mandated opportunities of wilderness solitude.

MAXIMUM NUMBER OF STOCK: 12 HEARTBEATS
Number of stock permitted (12) provides for up to 8 people to ride and use pack animals during a wilderness visit.

STOCK USE RESTRICTION - MANDATORY SETBACK FROM WATER : 200 FEET
Protect water quality, vegetation, and privacy of other groups.

STOCK USE RESTRICTION - NO HITCHING OR TETHERING : 200 FEET
Prohibits tethering stock to live tree for more than 1 hour; prevents spread of barren soil areas and girdling of trees.

Sky Lakes Wilderness Recreation Opportunities

Geology

In terms of geologic time, the Sky Lakes Wilderness is quite young. Its volcanic and glacial history is clearly written in landforms as well as rocks and soil.

Geologic studies indicate that the earliest rocks in this part of the High Cascades began forming when a chain of volcanoes erupted between five and three million years ago. During the "Ice Age," the composite volcanoes of Mount Mazama and Mount McLoughlin began their initial build-up less than one million years ago. Just south of Sky Lakes, Brown Mountain produced its extensive lava field as late as 20,000 to 15,000 years ago, and the last eruption of Mt. McLoughlin took place around the same time.

On their north and east slopes, Mt. McLoughlin and other peaks bear the scars of glacial ice. Like most other major drainage's within Sky Lakes Wilderness, Seven Lakes Basin and the deep canyon of the Rogue River's Middle Fork were carved by the massive ice fields which covered the highest elevations of the Cascades.

With the onset of warmer climate, local glaciers virtually disappeared by 12,000 years ago. Volcanic activity was not yet over, however. Minor lava eruptions and mud-flows occurred at places like Big Bunchgrass Butte and Imagination Peak. A chain of cinder cones, extending from Goosenest Mountain north to present-day Crater Lake National Park, also formed during the post-glacial period. The most recent--and by far the most catastrophic--geologic event happened about 6,700 years ago, when Mt. Mazama exploded and collapsed, forming the caldera of Crater Lake. Some of the vast amount of rock and ash which was thrown into the air landed in the northern portion of Sky Lakes Wilderness, creating the pumice-covered "Oregon Desert."

Although forests now carpet much of its terrain, Sky Lakes Wilderness retains its character as a land derived from "fire and ice."

Vegetation

On the timbered slopes are found many species of trees and smaller plants. Nearly two dozen tree species exist, ranging from the Pacific yew in the lowlands to the mountain hemlock and subalpine fir in the higher places. Lodgepole pine is commonly found, but is in its element in the Oregon Desert. Whitebark pine, an uncommon tree in Sky Lakes, may be found high on the slopes of Mt. McLoughlin. Shasta red fir dominates much of the Wilderness.

Numerous shrubs, ground-covering plants, and wildflowers occur in Sky Lakes. Special attention should be paid to the prostrate juniper and heather in the rocks above Margurette Lake, the brilliant columbine amid the talus rock of Lucifer, and the kinnikinnick and huckleberry found in many places throughout the wilderness.

Wildlife

You may encounter any of the wild creatures common to the Cascade Range as you travel Sky Lakes. You may see chipmunks, a family of deer, or even a herd of elk. Possibly a black bear will visit your camp or a coyote will fill your night with his lonely music. Uncommon animals in the area include the yellow-bellied marmot, the fisher, and the pine marten. Often heard (but rarely seen) among the rocks of talus slopes is the tiny pika.

Eagles and other large hawks may be seen as they pass through. Goshawks live and hunt under the tree canopy. The area provides them with an excellent environment in which to nest and rear their young.

Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail

Hikers and horsemen will find a well constructed, well maintained Pacific Crest Trail winding along 35 miles of the summit of the Cascade Range through the Sky Lakes Wilderness. A trailhead on Highway 140, a mile east of Fish Lake, is the southern entrance point. The trail passes through lake basins and over ridges on its way north, where it crosses into Crater Lake National Park. The Pacific Crest Trail may be reached from other locations by way of the many other trails that enter the Sky Lakes Wilderness.

Maps of the Pacific Crest Trail through Oregon are available at Forest Service offices.

Fishing

Many of the nearly 200 lakes in the area are shallow and do not support fish, but the deeper lakes may have some brook trout. A few lakes may have rainbow trout. The South and Middle forks of the Rogue River and Red Blanket Creek also provide fishing. An Oregon State fishing license is required.

Hunting

General hunting seasons are in accordance with the Oregon State Fish and Game Department regulations. Oregon hunting licenses and appropriate game tags can be obtained at most sporting goods stores in Oregon. Outside of hunting season, firearms are permitted, but discharging them is discouraged due to the obvious nuisance effect created where peace and tranquility are the expectations of users.

Wildflowers

Depending on conditions from year to year, the most spectacular wildflower displays occur in July or early August. The best huckleberry picking is in late August.

Rock Climbing

Rock climbing is not considered an attraction in Sky Lakes.

History

Beginning several thousand years ago Native American groups--ancestors of the Klamath and the Takelma Indians--hunted game and gathered huckleberries within the Sky Lakes area. Klamath youths would sometimes come to make their "vision quest" (a religious experience during which one fasted in solitude and sought a spiritual vision while dreaming) on high peaks along the Cascade crest. However, the short season of mild weather and the limited variety of food plants and animals did not encourage prehistoric visitors to stay long.

The early white settlers also made use of the Sky Lakes--hunting, trapping beaver or marten in the winter, grazing their stock (in the early days, large herds of sheep) in the high meadows during the warm months. Settlers from lower-elevation communities came each August to pick huckleberries at places like Stuart Falls and Twin Ponds. After 1906 the newly established Forest Service built trails and fire lookouts within the Sky Lakes area. By mid-1970s, a new Pacific Crest Trail route replaced the original Oregon Skyline Trail of a half-century earlier.

Points of Historical Interest. The Sky Lakes Wilderness contains evidence of use by previous visitors--from the stone tools of prehistoric Indians to 20th century cabins and shelters. These cultural resources are protected by law for public enjoyment and education; please do not remove, disturb or destroy these gifts from the past.

The Twin Ponds Trail follows the route of the old Rancheria Trail, an Indian travel route. In 1863, it was widened and used as a military wagon road between Jacksonville and Fort Klamath. This portion of the Rancheria Trail is listed on the Nation; Register of Historic Places; many segments of the old wagon route are visible to the discerning eye along the Twin Ponds Trail.

At the southeast end of Island Lake is the Waldo Tree. This inscribed Shasta red fir bears the carved names of early-day Oregon conservationist Judge John B. Waldo and four companions. In 1888, these men journeyed south along the crest of the Cascades, from Waldo Lake to Mt. Shasta, the first recorded party to travel much of the general route of what is now the Pacific Crest Trail.

Contact

• Highs Cascades Ranger District
• Fremont-Winema National Forest www.fs.usda.gov/fremont-winema